2022년 3월 8일 화요일

About the costumes of the Goryeo Dynasty.

 1. In the 6th year of Queen Jinseong's reign (892) of Silla, a period of the establishment of costumes during the Goryeo Dynasty, Gyeon Hwon established Hubaekje, which finally brought about the division of the Later Three Kingdoms. Among them, in the 5th year of King Hyogong's reign (901), the 52nd king of the Unified Silla Dynasty, and Taebong, a general of Silla, was the most powerful country centered on the south of Pyongyang, and they fought with Gyeon Hwon's Hubaekje to expand their power. In this way, Goryeo was founded and lasted for 34:475 years from 918 to 1392. The Later Three Kingdoms, which were divided into Silla, Hubaekje, and Goryeo, comforted King Taejo Wang Geon in the 18th year (935) and the 56th King Gyeongsun of Silla with marriage policy to surrender. A year later, they attacked King Taejo's 19th year (936), Gyeonhwon's son of Hubaekje to completely unify the Later Three Kingdoms. The Later Three Kingdoms, which were divided into Silla, Hubaekje, and Goryeo, were reunited in the 18th year of King Taejo's reign (935), when King Gyeongsun of Silla surrendered to Goryeo and King Singum of Hubaekje surrendered. The country of Goryeo not only inherited the Silla period culturally, but also absorbed cultures such as Dang, Song, and Won from various angles, and politically claimed to be the successor of Goguryeo, continuing to fight armed or spiritual battles with the northern people. Since the founding of Goryeo, the situation around the state has developed greatly after the Khitan people destroyed Balhae, subjugated China's Qin, and changed the national title to Daeyo. Over the next 25 years, it invaded Goryeo and eventually established diplomatic relations during the 7th Emperor Xuanzong. After King Seonjong of the 13th Goryeo Dynasty, the Malgal people became strong, founded gold, and established diplomatic relations during the 17th race. In addition, it formed friendly relations with the five generations of China and friendly relations with Song, but diplomatic relations were cut off and neutral due to surrounding circumstances. Mongolia invaded Goryeo six times over 30 years after Genghis Khan built the circle, and eventually surrendered during the 23rd Goryeo Dynasty, undergoing considerable transformation in the interference of the circle. In addition, at the end of the Goryeo Dynasty, as the circle declined, it rejected the circle and became friends with the Ming Dynasty. ■ Goryeo followed Silla's Gujedo Island, which remained throughout society from the beginning of its foundation, so the dual structure of our own and Chinese costumes coexisted in the doubles. If you look at Goryeo's doubles system in the Preface of Women's Welfare in Goryeo History, it can be divided into three transformation processes, and the first and middle Goryeo were influenced by the five generations and song costumes, and the second Goryeo was greatly influenced by the Mongolian national marriage. At the end of Goryeo, the third period, it was modeled after the decline of Won and the new title system, and this was only a change in the system from the ruling class, the government-controlled class, and the working class inherited and wore our own costumes. ■ Therefore, the change in costumes during the Goryeo Dynasty is revealed through the Goryeo history and the preface to the welfare of women. In Korea, the costume of the chairman followed the national customs from the Samhan period, but in the Silla Dynasty, King Taejong accepted the costume style of the Tang Dynasty, and the system of official clothing below from the king became almost similar to that of China. King Taejo Wang Geon of the Goryeo Dynasty had no choice but to accept Silla's official style because it was difficult to establish all systems on its own amid the cluttered nature of the founding foundation, and there was no clear identity for the costume culture in the early Goryeo Dynasty. It is not until the time of King Gwangjong that the empty stomach of the white crown is determined after ■. It is Goryeo style, not Silla style. During the reign of King Uijong of Goryeo, Pyeongjangsa Choi Chung-ui mixed Dangje with Goryeo style and transformed it into an independent Goryeo style. Since he was conquered by the Yuan Dynasty in the late Goryeo Dynasty, he has maintained wearing Mongolian clothes for almost a hundred years. After the collapse of Yuan, Ming Dynasty was established in China, and due to King Gongmin's independence and Ming Dynasty's influence, Mongolian-style costumes became distant and Goryeo-style costumes gradually regained. 2. The costume style of the early Goryeo Dynasty absorbed the culture by establishing a peaceful friendship with the five generations and Song Dynasty in relation to foreign countries. The 4th King Gwangjong tried to establish the royal authority with the most independent spirit among all kings of Goryeo, while externally observing the chaotic international situation of the continent and taking friendly measures against Song, showing independence in determining the white crown's hunger. - The costumes of the early Goryeo Dynasty mainly inherited the costumes of the Later Tang and Song dynasties. The painting is a landscape of Jangan Province in the later Chinese period, and all the costumes of the Tang Dynasty are revealed in various ways. - 3. The Mongolian invasion of doubles in the late Goryeo Dynasty caused enormous losses across politics, economy, and culture, and eventually surrendered after 29 years of war. Since then, the trend of chasing the Mongolian style has emerged in the lower royal nobles and aristocrats. In the midst of this, the costumes are influenced by the Mongolian style. Looking at the costumes influenced by the Mongolian style, there were individual clothes, plain clothes, and jilson given to Goryeo by Won. The individual hair style (Figure 22) means that it is braided with only the hair left on the top of the head after shaving the hair according to the Mongolian custom. When King Chungnyeol was a crown prince, he entered the country as Byeon Bal-ho-bok when he visited Won, and after his throne, he ordered all Mongolian clothing and individual change. However, only the ruling bureaucracy and some intellectuals who wanted to succeed responded, but not all the general public followed. ■ Mongolian-style Byeonbal Mongolian-style Byeonbal was braided with only the hair left on the top of the head after cutting the edge of the head. When King Chungnyeol of Goryeo was a crown prince, he entered Korea in Byeonbalhobok and ordered all Mongolian clothing and individual Byeonbal. However, it was not implemented by ordinary people, but was mainly applied only to the ruling class. ■ Looking at the clothing styles imported from the Yuan Dynasty, Goryeosa Temple shows that among the clothes given by the Empress of the Yuan Dynasty to the king, queen, and servant of Goryeo, there are Okdae, Tapjapo, Geumtapja, Geumpo, and Jusupyo-ri. Another symbol of the costume of the circle is the pearl that King Chungnyeol brought from the circle for the princess. ■ Jilson (孫)) used in the ceremonies of the Mongolian court and Jilson (史史) influenced by Mongolian style refer to one color suit in Chinese characters in the original history Yeobokji, and it is said to have been worn by Naejeong Daeyeon. The court's ministers and eunuchs also wore them, and it is said that there was a distinction between upper and lower levels in wearing the clothes, including the court musician. In other words, it is the influence of entering society. Cheonja made Jo Bok and Gong Bok as vaginal descendants, and Dongbok, Gudeung, Habok, and Sibsadeung were among the vaginal descendants of Baekgwan. While Mongolian customs were called Mongolian styles, it cannot be overlooked that Goryeo customs were spread to the upper-class society of the Yuan Dynasty, which was widely popular in Mongolia at that time, and among them, Korean clothing styles such as durumagi were absorbed into the upper-class Mongol. This is due to the inevitable national exchange between the two countries while Goryeo had a very close political relationship with Mongolia, which resulted from the entry of numerous Goryeo people into Mongolian society. ■ In the late Goryeo Dynasty - the late Goryeo Dynasty, King Gongmin, the crowned king, tried to escape from Won's rule by promoting independence and friendliness, and during the 31st King Gongmin's reign, he implemented a restorative revival policy. There were no exceptions in costumes, but King Gongmin himself wore 12 uniforms of 12 ryu-myeon, the same level as the Chinese emperor, saying that it was Gujangbok in Guryu-myeon in his uniform, cotton uniform. In addition, the civil service white crown was changed to black and blue, the monk's robe was changed to black Geondae crown, and the woman's uniform was changed to black ra, which was based on the theory of yin-yang and five elements, but was intended to seek Goryeo's independence. In addition, King Gongmin went further and actively responded to the new surrounding situation by requesting official blessing from Ming, which took into account the relief of Won, the party, and the Songui system.The king's cotton cloth, crude oil official cloth, and military official's clothes received during the reign of King Gongmin were in accordance with the pro-wang ritual of the Chinese royal family, and the queen's official cloth was the enemy of the Ming Dynasty of the Song Dynasty. The influence of the double-decker title was remarkable by national policy in the Joseon Dynasty. ■ The system of changing the costumes of Goryeo in the Goryeo Dynasty was found in Goryeosa Temple that King Taejo of Goryeo took the relief of Silla in the early days and used it, then went to Uijongjo and all the systems were established. After that, it was said that he wore a tiger's robe through the influence of Won and returned to the old system under the influence of Ming.However, this was a change in the system of the ruling Gwanin class, and the working class would have changed while following the old costumes. Goryeo has no data, so there are relics of the late Goryeo Dynasty next to the Byeokgoha and Nahando of Dunmari Ancient Tombs in Geochang, Mokwoo and Hayeonbuin statues of the late Goryeo Dynasty excavated in Bangbae-dong, Seoul, and Gwangyeongseo Bunbyeonsang. Here, you can see the image of the queen, maid, and offering, and through these data, you can find typical aspects of the costumes of the Goryeo Dynasty. In addition, there are Goryeo History, Goryeo Dogyeong, and Chinese materials as literature that can infer Goryeo style.

The governance of Goryeo was the monarch, including the nobility, or yangbancheung, and underneath, and as a junior iseocheung pijibae There was the working class to class. The double reciprocating, Odae, Song, and a circle, and in the name of the system by the baekkwanbok bontteoseumyeo, the power in the middle of our country's own compound has its entirety. This commentary Koryo Dynasty in the round (王服), doubles the Goryeo Dynasty, for the three d baekkwanbok minseobok, (百官服), (民庶服), (便服), and everyday clothes <Dogyeong consideration <> > in multiple systems and portraits or (高麗佛畵) Goryeo Dynasty's hand-carved nativity figures want to explain to them.  4. Characteristics of costumes during the Goryeo Dynasty, men's and women's hair, crowns, accessories, plain people's clothing, clothing, clothes materials, large, horse, flower, and ri, etc. were usually used in ancient times, followed by Tang Dynasty clothes accepted by Namguk Silla. On the basis of the doubles and practice in largely unchanged. ① Kitan., ② ② gold and South Korean prisons, prisons for decades, and ③, however, Mongolia, Bukwon ④ Ming! By interacting with age, characteristics, such as an element of, characteristics taking into account by the bokssingmi was created. These trade relations with tonghayeo and consideration multiple periods : The division will be divided as follows : for convenience, shall be construed. Gwangjong of up to 10 years since the early days of Taejo ① Dongje may (918 - 960) acceptance of the Silla multiple lenses for more than four decades the South's doubles (服飾). Kitan., ② Gwangjong of 11 years between prisons for three years, (- 961 1125) years, Yōwa ③ Gojong of the race four years from four years to more than 100 years, 165 years, during exchanges (- 1217 1126) up to 16 years until the year ④ Gojong, 4, Mongolia. AC 150 years at the time with a circle. Northern Yuan Dynasty, and exchanges between (1368 - 392) until After 19 years, ⑤ gongminwang gungmal 22 years at the time of the fabric of the Goryeo Dynasty. 5. considerations are of central office, Geumjang (錦匠), (a woolen manufacturing expert craftsman), the Chief of the biased length. meters of fabric of the weaving team to focus on the plant, najang, and neungjang. The kind of fabric that was used to trading in a foreign country as a gift or, following things. 1. Neung: Myeonghwangneung, Namhwangneung, astronomical Hongneung, Hwangneung, Jaeneung, Simmunhongneung, Haenghwangneung, Chihwangneung, Baekneung, Cheonsaekneung, Maeheungneung, Unbyeokneung, Namhwangsa, Shimmunhongsa, Haenghwangsa, Chihwangsa, Cheonsaeksa, Maehongsa, Sa, Unbyeokra, Nambyeokna, Nambyeokra, Baekbyeoksa. Yongbong Five layers, and withdrawal. 6. Four : Seogwipo, three, three, rumapo saengjeungpo saengpyeongpo, oil leak now, etc seolmyeonja, etc, Mok-myeon, etc, and so on : ways. 7.. Erie : 8. The fur, yellow cat, elk, cats, badgers, ferrets, an otter skin, tiger. Rats, cows, goats, cattle, horses, the White Horse, a bear, mule, leather was used, such as the wolf. 9. Wool: Wool fabrics such as brown, jeon, gye, gyeum, etc. Gal: As a lower-grade wool, wool for the owner (batman) or general public. Exhibition: Non-woven fabric made by storing mother fibers, Exhibition, Exhibition, Cheongjeon, Osaekjeon, etc. Gye: A wool woven with dyed imitation. There were red, yellow, and red gye according to the color of the abdomen, gold, silver, silver, silver, gold, silver, gold, gold, bronze, gold, gold, and gold, gold, gold, silver, etc. Gyegeum: It was woven into a teaching profession using dyed limit and silk, and was also woven by mixing it with metal threads such as gold, silver, and copper. It was used as a high-quality clothing material. There were Gyegeum, Geumeunjanggyegeum, Geumeunseongyegeum, Geumeunseon Jikseonggyegeum, Hongjigeum and Osaekjikheunggyegeum, Eunohaekseon Jikseonghwajegeum, and Gyegeum Hongjigeum and Osaekseon Jikseonghwajegeum. Through Goryeo Buddhist paintings and relics excavated from the Buddhist sanctuary, you can see various fabrics such as thin and colorful temples, la, tomb, dan, and so on.

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